When I wrote When Fashion Designers Forget to #givecredit article, I promised I will come dorsum with a story about "the suman". It'sa piece of the Romanaian traditional costume which Tory Burch used in her 2018 Resort Collection without giving credit to its source of inspiration.

This article gives you a improve understading of the history of the suman. Plus, bring to your attention few things that Tory Burch and many other designers probably have no idea about:

  • Nigh 100 years ago, so, mode they discovered the beautiful Romanian suman, at that place was an extraordinary woman who promoted it. Her proper noun is Queen Marie of Romania!
  • There are of import museums around the world which havein their exhibitionsfor tens of years some amazing sumans, vests, coats and entire Romanian folk costume;
  • Few years prior to Tory Burch, Ioana Corduneanu and Alina Elena Iancovik, two Romanian designers, used the suman and its stylish intricated black embroidery as a source of inspiration. And they did all this not just by giving credit, but likewise but reinterpreting information technology.

The Romanian SUMAN

"Suman" – that's how Romanians call it for some hundred of years; it comes from the Bulgarian give-and-take"sukmanŭ", meaning peasant coat.The suman was wore (and even so are) by both women and men in diverse regions of Romania during autumn-winter time. In the sometime days, information technology was h and-fabricated 100% past women of all ages. Passing the art of weaving and embroidery was done from generation to generation along with all the subconscious meanings of the symbols and patterns.

These were hand woven from wool and embroided by women. The embroided symbols and colors may vary depending on the region, yet black is the ascendant color of the embroidery.

Suman - Romanian folk autumn coat

Suman - Romanian folk winter coat

The Suman fit for a Queen

Queen Marie of Romania

Five years agone I posted a story — Falling in Love with My Romanian IA, depicting Queen Marie of Romania, the 22th granddaughter of Queen Victoria. She married Prince Karl of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, Prince of Romania and followed him to Bucharest.

She came at a very young age to a foreign state, full of hopes and questions, not knowing much about Romanians.She fell in love with the people and their heritage.

Yet, God gave some of His greatest gifts a Queen can savor. A state which became her center's dwelling. Traditions, customs and cute landscapes which inspired her to write almost and fight for Romania. The dear a nation who honours and remembers her fifty-fifty today.

On August 1924, Queen Marie of Romania became the 2nd European monarch ever to grace the cover of Fourth dimension Mag, after King George V. She was also the 3rd woman e'er on the cover of Time, after the Italian theatre icon Eleonora Duse and the time to come U.Due south. First Lady Lou Henry Hoover.

"I came to this country at very young age, yet I became one of you."

Queen Marie of Romania

Queen Marie of Romania (1875-1938)

The Queen of Our Hearts

And, if y'all knew her story, you lot would know that the above quote is an extremely accurate representation of the truth. Queen Mary found inspiration in our cultural heritage and in return she inspired united states dorsum. She was a queen proud to wear her adoptive state's folk costume. And, as you lot can see Queen Mary and her daughters were extremely proud to wearable the Romanian suman.

Queen Marie & The Suman
Queen Marie of Romania and Princesses Irina, Ileana, Marie, Mignon, and Helen (1923)

There are hundreds of pictures of the Queen wearing the out national costume. The picture above is just one proving how she passed on her love for the folk costume to all her daughters. It's also shows you the sumans and the IAs made specially for the Romanian Royal family.

In many of the pictures I have mentioned, Queen Marie appears proudly wearing a suman she had fabricated for her. It was a much mod interpretation and cut of the traditional Romanian suman.

The Romanian suman - on display for the world to see

Maryhill Museum of Art

Sumans, vests and other clothing pieces of similar type of embroidery continued to be made and wore without interruption for hundreds of years. Their beauty and amazing embroidery turned them into existent treasures for museums around the world. And I picked two of these museums which started collecting various pieces of the Romanian folk costumes since the beginning of the 20th century.

Non past chance, I shall get-go with Maryhill Museum of Fine art (Portland, US), one of the Pacific Northwest's most enchanting cultural destinations. It is h oused in a Beaux Arts mansion on 5,300 acres high above the Columbia River.

 The museum was founded Northwest entrepreneur and visionary Samuel Hill (1857 – 1931). Lawyer, railroad executive and "an eccentric Washington Country millionaire with a passion for the Columbia Gorge", as Oregon Portland Encyclopedia contributor Kristine Deacon calls him, Samuel Hill essentially influenced the economical development of the Pacific Northwest region in the early 20th century. He purchased the belongings and began building the house with dreams of establishing a Quaker farming community. When the goal proved untenable, Hill was encouraged by friends actresses Loïe Fuller, Queen Marie of Romania, and Alma de Bretteville Spreckles to establish a museum. And then he did, despite all challenges he had to face.

Queen Marie and Sam Hill, 1926 Courtesy Oreg. Hist. Soc. Research Library, OrHi63563

An aggressive visionary and "inveterate globetrotter", Sam Hill was a long-time friend of Queen Marie of Romania.  Besides being considered one the most beautiful royals of Europe, she was an influential monarchs and political figures of Europe at that time. Therefore, it is no wonder that her visit to the Usa (1926), prompted a media frenzy like no other. On Nov 3, at Samuel Hill's invitation, she presided over the still-unfinished Maryhill Museum of Art's dedication anniversary.Afterward on, in her diary Queen Marie called Maryhill:

"that foreign uncouth cement building erected by the just as strange old Samuel Loma. ... I knew when I prepare out that morning to consecrate that queer freak of a building that no one would understand why; I knew it was empty and in no wise ready to house objects for a museum. I knew in that location were scoffers about me, even hostilities, only a spirit of agreement was stiff in me that twenty-four hour period and I managed by my ain personality, by my words, by my spirit, to move all the hearts beating there this morning. ... I knew that a dream had been built into this house, a dream beyond the everyday comprehension of the everyday man".

Queen Marie of Romania

Queen Marie of Romania (1875-1938)

On this occasion, Queen Marie donated more than 100 works of art and personal items to the museum.  This donation included

For those who would love to explore the story of the Queen's Marie Collection, I warmly invite you to watch this short video.

Queen Marie of Romania's souvenir served as the basis of what today is an impressive drove of over 450 pieces of Romanaian folk costumes, textiles, icons, paintings, manuscripts.

Queen Marie Suman 1924

Last only non least of import, in January 2020, Maryhill Museum of Art announced that it will open its 80th anniversary flavour on March 15 a special Romanian Textiles Exhibition.

"A Particular Beauty: Romanian Folk Clothing" Exhibition features 20 fully dressed mannequins and numerous individual garments including coats, chemises, blouses, and vests. Visitors can admire a variety of Romanian embroidery techniques, mediums, and styles. Co-ordinate to Curator of Art Steve Grafe,"This marks the first time that nosotros accept mounted an exhibition of this calibration of Romanian textiles. (…) It will requite the public an opportunity to come across many objects that we take recently acquired as well every bit pieces that were gifted to the museum when information technology was first established."

The Romanian suman - on display for the earth to see

Horniman Museum & Gardens

Sumans, vests and other wear pieces of similar type of embroidery connected to exist made and wore without interruption for hundreds of years. Their dazzler and astonishing embroidery turned them into real treasures for museums around the world. And I picked ii of these museums which started collecting various pieces of the Romanian folk costumes since the showtime of the 20th century.

Opened to the public since Victorian times and located in Due south of London (UK), The Horniman Museum & Gardens mission is to connect us all with global cultures and the natural environment. It's on Horniman website photo gallery I found these amazing Romanian sumans, coats and vests. Photograph credits belong to Horniman, I but put information technology together in these collages for you to enjoy.

Romanian Suman @ Horniman Museum

Romanian Vests @ Horniman

The Romanaian National Rugby Team

Ioana Corduneanu

Graduating "Ion Mincu Institute of Compages" (Bucharest), Ioana Corduneanu is recognized in Romania as 1 of the most important contributors for preserving the tradition of the national folk costume. Many years ago she launched Semne Cusute project where she meticulously started documenting the symbols and patterns embroided past the Romanian women from all corners of the state on their family's folk costumes.

The reason I mention has to do with the fact that she was one of the offset to bring back to the attention of the international and local public the Romanaian suman. And this is the story of how she did.

Ioana Corduneanu
Photo: Ioana Corduneanu Facebook page

On December 17, 2013, the Romanaian Rugby Federation officially announced the long-term partnership with Semne Cusute Association founded by Corduneanu. This meant that starting the beginning of 2014 Stejarii, the Romanaian national rugby team will clothing the symbols of the Romanian traditional culture on their equipment.

When asked well-nigh this initiative,  Lucian Lori, Communication & Marketing Director of the Romanaian Rugby Federation, said: "We wish Stejarii to exist the essence of what Romanian means. We all know the sport is the best ambassador and we would similar to take advantage of this opportunity and evidence the globe proofs of our culture. Out of the dozens of Romanian traditional motifs, we chose the strongest ones for what they signify inspires us. Moreover, the symbol nosotros chose for 2014 volition be embroidered on the t-shirt to strengthen the message linked with the preservation of our tradition."

Suman - symbols explained
The Screw & The Horns of the Ram symbols - explained by Ioana Corduneanu

Information technology is an honour for us to support the connexion between our Romanian tradition and such a sport with a long history, by ennobling Stejarii t-shirts with ancient symbols expressing the values of our people. Taking such responsibility is is a step forward towards rediscovering our identity.

Ioana Corduneanu

Ioana Corduneanu

Founder, Semne Cusute Association

Romanian Rugby National Team 2015 T-Shirts

Romanian Rugby National Team

IIANA 2015 - Queen Marie Suman

Alina Elena Iankovic

Alina Elena Isakovic
Source: Alina Iancovik Facebook page

Dorsum in 2015, Alina Elena Isakovic, founder of IIANA, an online fashion store brand of ethnic inspiration, revived the archetype peasant wintertime coat called "suman". Back in 2015, Alina Elena Isakovic, founder of IIANA, an online mode store brand of ethnic inspiration, revived the classic peasant wintertime coat called "suman".

It is not by chance that now I bring to your attention IIANA's 2015 collection. Yes, it has everything to do withTory Burch re-create-cat Romanian suman.

My inspiration comes from old books I have been collected along the years from antique shops. I believe that the all-time source of inspiration is the i from coming from the quondam Romanian books. In my design shop, we do not necessarily take into consideration the fashion trends. Nosotros rather prefer to think of new ways of how to integrate an onetime traditional Romanian piece of clothing into a stylish modern urban outfit.

Alina Elena Isakovic

Alina Iankovic

Fashion designer, Founder of IIANA

O ne of the pieces is a suman named "Queen Marie". It makes a meaningful connection with Queen Marie of Romania, one of the about elegant and influential royals of her fourth dimension. The pictures are cocky-explanatory, yet I added a few details below.

IIANA 2015 - suman

It is worth mentioning that all these pieces use natural fabrics and the hand made embroidery is mostly by local artisans in Gorj area, Oltenia. It's a region well-known for the suman both men and women clothing for centuries. This ways a lot when it comes to preserving the actuality of the embroidery and respect for what information technology ways. Every bit you know, symbols carry meanings and when put to together, they tell a great life story.

Just a cursory conclusion

Marrying original folk pieces and modern wear

To the present days, Queen Marie of Romania remains the greatest promoter of all times of the Romanian traditional folk costume. The sumans, the IAs, the rich and amazing folk costumes she so proudly wore were not just an inspiration for the fashion designers beyond the world. For Her Majesty, wearing the Romanian folk costumes was a mode of connecting with the energy of the people who welcomed her as their Queen of Hearts. Queen'due south Mary legacy is today carried out by mode designers and folk costume curators such as Alin Gălățescu, Iulia Gorneanu, Ioana Corduneanu,Alina Elena Iankovic, Philippe Guilet and many others.

Bibliography:

Manufactures & BOOKS:

  1. Corduneanu, Ioana — Almost me, ioanacorduneanu.com
  2. Clay, Henry L.A Rumanian Quee in the West, Frontier Times, April-May 1968
  3. Deacon, Kristine — Queen Marie of Romania's 1926 visit to Oregon, The Oregon Encyclopedia,
  4. Edwards, Tom —Queen Marie and Her 1926 Visit to the Pacific Northwest, Maryhill Magic Newsletter, 2008
  5. Galescu, Roxana — IIANA, eleganță cu influențe tradiționale, Fashion Premium Mag, January 16, 2019,
  6. Marie, Queen of Romania — America Seen By A Queen: Queen Marie's Diary of her 1926 Voyage to the Usa of America, Bucharest, The Romanian Cultural Foundation Publishing Firm, 1999
  7. Moldovan, Medeea — Gypsey Vest – cojoc tradițional românesc, fabricated in India, vândut de un brand celebru la un preţ exorbitant, November xix, 2018
  8. Neblea, Andreea — Cum a ajuns cojocul românesc să fie made in India şi vândut de un brand celebru la un preţ exorbitant, Adevărul Newspaper, November 19, 2018
  9. Pakula, Hannah — The Last Romantic, New York: Simon and Schuster, 1984
  10. Însemne solare și modelele pandurilor pe tricourile de cupă mondială, Romanaian Rugby Federation, Baronial eighteen, 2015
  11. Simboluri ale culturii românești vor fi promovate de Sttejarii începând cu 2014, Romanian Rugby Federation, December 17, 2013
  12. Maryhill Museum of Fine art Opens 80th Ceremony Season with Romanian Textiles Exhibition, Maryhill Museum of Art, January 31, 2020
  13. Maryhill Museum of Art, January 31, 2020

PHOTO CREDITS:

I I highly encourage you to click on these links and bask even more than astonishing images.

  • Bran Castle photo gallery
  • Horniman Museum & Gardens, London, United Kindom
  • Maria, Queen of Romania, Maryhill Museum of Art, Portland, USA
  • Romanian Rugby Federation @ Facebook Page